Khi đồng hồ chưa có chống Shook và thú chơi của một ông Vua (Admin xóa giúp bài trước)

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7 Tháng tám 2018 lúc 14:11
#1
Vào những năm 20 của thế kỷ trước, khi những đồng hồ đeo tay đã xuất hiện trên thị trường chỉ là một cải tiến của chiếc đồng hồ quả quýt thêm dây đeo. Những chiếc đeo tay khi đó chưa được tích hợp công nghệ chống Shook nên đối với những hoạt động thể thao phải dùng đến đôi tay, đặc biệt như đánh golf thì người chơi golf muốn xem giờ vẫn phải rút cái thứ “lòng thòng” trong túi ra là: Đồng hồ quả quýt.
Từ những lý do đó, vào năm 1926, Edward VIII (vua của nước Anh đăng quang năm 1936) lúc đó là một tay chơi khét tiếng của Hoàng Gia Anh, nổi tiếng với đam mê và thành tích chơi golf, lái máy bay ( Edward VIII còn được biết đến là một ông vua trị vì ngắn nhất trong lịch sử Hoàng Gia Anh - Ông từ bỏ ngai vàng khi tại vị chưa được 360 ngày để theo tiếng gọi của tình yêu, sang Paris sống với người tình có xuất thân không được Hòa gia chấp thuận) - đã đặt hãng Tavannes của Thụy Sỹ thiết kế riêng cho mình một mẫu đồng hồ đeo vào thắt lưng để tiện cho việc xem giờ khi chơi môn thể thao quý sờ tộc là golf. Sau đó, một số mẫu tương tự đã được sản xuất và phân phối ra thị trường cùng với dây lưng của hãng thời trang lừng danh Hermes. Thời gian ngắn sau, công nghệ đồng hồ phát triển, những chiếc đồng hồ đeo tay được tích hợp công nghệ chống shook. Từ đó, loại đồng hồ đeo thắt lưng cũng ngừng sản xuất. Đây là lý do khiến dòng đồng hồ này khá hiếm trong giới sưu tập.
Hiện nay tại bảo tàng Hermer đang trưng bày một mẫu tương tự:


[A watch within the belt buckle: to help keep time on the golf course without the necessity of wearing a watch]
Tại Việt Nam cũng có một mẫu tương tự, em mời các bác tham khảo cho vui:
Đồng hồ mang thương hiệu Girard Perregaux Silver 935 Case Manual Table Watch.
- Máy lên dây thiều 2 kim rưỡi .
- Vỏ bằng bạc đúc 935 (trọng lượng khoảng hơn 60gram).
- Mặt số đã có dấu vết theo thời gian cùng với số học trò nổi.
- Kích thước: 32 mm x 57 mm

















Mời các bác thamkhảo thêm thông tin liên quan ạ:
http://www.chronoswatchmagazine.com/historic-tavannes/
Historic Tavannes: Rebuilding the Brand
This advertisement by Tavannes was used for years, beginning in the late 1930s, to symbolize its preeminence as the world"s fourth-largest watch manufacturer. The artist"s rendering shows the five factories located in Tavannes (the company"s headquarters); Neuchatel; La Joux; La Chaux de Fonds; and LeLocle. Combined, the factories made 4,000 finished pieces a day.
It might be a watch brand you haven"t heard of. Or if you HAVE, you"ve probably heard it pronounced incorrectly. The name is Tavannes. It"s pronounced ta-VAHN, like the lady"s name LaVonne.
It used to be one of world’s largest watch manufacturers. During its heyday in the 1920s and ‘30s, five manufacturing plants turned out as many as 4,000 watch movements a day. It employed around 2,000 workers, and had turned the little town of Tavannes, Switzerland, into a booming manufacturing center. The company not only made movements for its own branded watches, but supplied movements to other prestigious watch manufacturers and retailers, including Jaeger LeCoultre, Dunhill, Hermes, and Cartier. The company even made a custom watch for the king of England that eventually became one of the company‘s iconic models.
But through a series of marketing decisions and market realties, the brand virtually disappeared. It would have become extinct altogether, save for the efforts of three men who, in 2008, decided to rebuild the brand from the ground up. They have brought fresh ideas and designs to the “affordable luxury” watch market, but at the same time have a deep and tangible respect for the brand’s rich heritage.
But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. The story of Tavannes begins in 1891 with the founding of the company by a 40-year-old master watchmaker, Henri-Frédéric Sandoz, in the town of Tavannes, today a small city of approximately 3,500. Sandoz was a mechanical genius; his company not only made its own movements—called Calilbers—in-house (one of the few Swiss companies to do so), but also developed proprietary watch-making machinery (lathes, milling machines, etc.) which was sold to other manufacturers.


In addition to being distributed through Dunhill, the Tavannes "La Captive" model caught the attention of luxury jeweler Cartier. This specimen"s sterling silver case is overlaid with beautiful white and red enamel. Cartier sold these watches using the signature "Lisica S.A." on the movements, which was a subsidiary of Tavannes. Photo by Sotheby’s.
An Early Adopter
The company early on saw the market potential for wristwatches, producing finished models as early as 1905. By the 1910s, it was producing Calibers specifically manufactured for wristwatches, while most other companies were still using pocket watch movements adopted (some rather crudely) for conversion into wristwatches. One of the first wristwatches we see is a Tavannes wristwatch made for the U.S. Signal Corps.
By the early 1920s, Tavannes entered the U.S. market, and this must surely be considered the company’s golden era. A number of extraordinary Calibers and models were developed.
Watchmaker to a King
Around 1926, Tavannes was presented with a challenge. The man who would eventually be crowned king Edward VIII of England (yes, the one who gave up the throne to marry American socialite Wallis Simpson) commissioned Tavannes to make him a custom watch that could be worn as a belt buckle while playing golf. With a discreet press of a small button, the watch portion of the buckle would flip open at an approximate 90 degree angle to its case. In this position, the time could be read.


A WATCH FIT FOR A KING:
The belt-buckle version of Tavannes innovative "La Captive" watch model started out as a custom order for King Edward VIII, and was eventually made available to the public, with distribution through Hermes; Photo by poupishop.com
Eventually, a golfer’s belt buckle version of the watch was offered to the public, and distributed through Hermes. From the custom order, Tavannes got the idea to apply the design to a hermetic watch, called “La Captive,” which the company began offering around 1929. It was first offered as a desk or purse watch, often with decorative enameling, and distributed through Dunhill, a prestigious European jeweler, as well as Cartier.
In 1931, another boom occurred for Tavannes. The watch company of Jaeger- LeCoultre (JL) was trying to come up with a hermetic watch of its own. JL wanted to make a true wristwatch that would rotate a full 180 degrees within its case. Worn either way, the watch would lie flat on the wrist. The one problem is that JL did not make an in-house caliber suitable to fit their patented swivel case. They turned to Tavannes, and for the first two years of production, used the Tavannes Caliber 064 in its watch. Thus, the famous “reverso” was born.
(The early reverso models with the Tavannes Caliber 064 are signed “Lisica S.A.” on their movements. Lisica was merely a holding company established by Tavannes to create a “buffer” between the two companies which otherwise would have confused jewelers and consumers as to who actually made the reverso watch. The “La Captive” watches sold by Cartier also can be seen with the Lisica signature on the movements.)


The Tavannes company"s early manufacture of practical wristwatches for men resulted in a contract by the U.S. Signal Corps. Watches of this type saw service during World War I; Photo courtesy oldwristwatches.com
Over the next several decades, various marketing decisions (that seemed prudent at the time) pushed the Tavannes company more and more into the background. The factories themselves eventually closed, and the brand all but became extinct. But in 2008, the brand was re-introduced with a fresh lineup of designs, along with affordable prices.
Building for the Future, Respecting the Past
Undertaking that challenge are three men: Florin Niculescu, president of the company’s Switzerland operations in Tavannes; Bruce Cummings, President of Tavannes U.S.A., based in Valencia, PA.; and Marc Cummings, Vice President.
“We see the brand as exclusive, yet anything but expensive,“ says Bruce Cummings. men’s models start at $500. For $995, you get a watch with a Swiss-made automatic movement with date, and genuine crocodile strap with deployment buckle.


The "335" is another iconic Tavannes model, introduced in the late 1920s, and named for the movement Caliber inside the watch. The elongated movement allowed for a more streamlined case, and room for a longer mainspring which gave the watch a three-day running time, an amazing feat for its day
The “exclusive” part comes from the fact that Tavannes watches are sold strictly through a network of authorized dealers, most of them independent. No big-box or department stores, no direct (or third-party) Internet sales. “We don’t want our customer buying a watch, and then seeing it offered a month later on a home shopping channel at half of what they paid,” says Cummings.
The company’s respect for its heritage shows in its “Vintage Club.“ Visitors to the company website can become members of the club and post pictures and information about their vintage Tavannes watches. Once registered with the website, owners’ identities are kept confidential, but pictures and information about vintage watches are shared with club members. This is highly unusual, as many watch companies devote little or no attention to their heritage. The mentality seems to be that they don’t make any money when their vintage watches are bought and sold on the secondary market. Tavannes views this differently ... that caring about people’s vintage watches (whether they are current Tavannes customers or not) is part of an overall culture of building relationships with existing (and potential) customers.
Tavannes watches are currently sold through 120 retail jewelers in 34 states. There are also several locations in Europe. They produce a full line of men’s and ladies’ watches, including a variety of karat gold watches, and fashion dress watches for women. The men’s lineup includes such specialties as a diver’s model, and a full skeletonized watch. Their full line can be seen at the company website, www.tavanneswatches.com.
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Ảnh vua Edward VIII chơi golf






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Và đây nữa:
http://www.watchprosite.com/page-wf.forumpost/fi-17/ti-791318/pi-5303108/
The luxury is time itself! La Montre Hermès has history, and time, on its side!
May 13, 2012,01:45 AM

[The view from Emile Hermès desk with the pocket watch that magnified his fascination with the mechanics of the watch]

In a year when Hermès has promised the ‘gift of time’ to all, it is worth reflecting how La Montre Hermès has evolved over the years. While in more recent times there has been a move by luxury houses to produce the haute horlogerie watch line, with Chanel and perhaps Ralph Lauren being the stand out newcomers, Hermès has been around for over 80 years. Hermès has history in the watch business and as a new movement is introduced this year it should be seen through the origins of the past. Watches, before handbags were on the agenda, and one of the founding family members for where Hermès is today: Emile Hermès was especially fascinated by clocks and watches and started the watch and clock line as a part of a response to the changing world. Hermès watches now form part of collections of watch collectors and the Paris auction house: Artcurial held a specialist auction of Hermès watches a few of years back. Hermès are truly a watch brand in their own right.

[The leather clock has been in the Hermès retail line since 1935. The clock sold today remains basically unaltered]

Time has been an essential element of Hermès from the beginnings. The actual symbol of Hermès, implies the passing of time. The now famous picture of the Duc coachman waiting for the owner and for the journey to begin is symbolic of the importance of time to the Hermès firm. Along with the traditional starting point for saddlery and harnesses, the element of time was in the waiting. There is both time in the waiting, and a timeless quality to Hermès designs.



Hence, for over 80 years, watches have always been a mainstay of Hermès. Because of Emile Hermès fascination with mechanical movements, the pocket watch that is part of the Hermès haute horlogerie collection is a faithful rendition of the pocket watch that sits on what was once Emile Hermès desk. Emile Hermès wanted the movement and the mechanics to be visible to study it.



Emile Hermès also gave watches to his daughters and one of the more famous photographs of the Hermès daughters shows Jacqueline Hermès wearing her watch on the wrist. Guillaume De Seynes sixth generation family member and Vice President of Hermès says that his then nine year old grandmother in the photograph was an energetic girl and Emile Hermès had developed the pocket watch wrist holder in part as a way of keeping the watch attached to his rambunctious daughter.

[A pocket watch in the Hermès leather pocket watch wrist strap]

For this article I was allowed unprecedented access to Emile Hermès inner sanctum (office) above the bustling streets of Paris. In a room that was once the private office of Emile Hermès, above the streets of Paris, at 24 rue Faubourg St. Honore, a number of the La Montres Hermès collection from the past was shown. I was allowed to both photograph the vintage watch collection as well as Emile Hermès desk. All the watches follow the Hermès mantra to take simple things and make them beautiful. What started as a leather goods manufacturer, Hermès would make the pocket watch holder and strap (in about 1912) – the coach driver could see the time as driving the, has developed into a full manufacture. From 1928 onwards, Hermès sold watches especially created for it by some of the most prestigious watch manufacturers. There was always an innovation about the watch design, but what is striking about Hermès watches is the legibility of reading the time. It is the very definition of elegance and simplicity even on the most complex of watches (such as a chronograph).

Developing and designing straps for ladies watches using leather that was refined and subtle was also set alongside innovative ways of wearing a watch on your person: as a belt buckle or in a lighter. The movements for the watches came from various manufacturers: Le Coultre, Cyma, Angelus, but the design of the watch or clock was always Hermès. It was innovative, made to be beautiful and functional at the same time.

[A watch within the belt buckle: to help keep time on the golf course without the necessity of wearing a watch]
[A variation on a theme: a pocket watch on a leather strap for golf. From about 1930]

As the age of leisure and disposal income progressed, that characterised the twentieth century, Hermès produced and sold products that were timeless in quality and design. The horse drawn carriage gave way to the horseless carriage, and leather bridle straps were no longer required (except for a few equestrians), Hermès had to find new lines of business. In keeping with the picture of the Duc and the waiting coachman, Emile Hermès decided to use Hermès leather workers skills in the rapidly changing world of personal transport. Emile Hermès focused on the needs of the traveller, from luggage to scarves and timekeeping. But never ones to pander to the vagaries of fashion, Hermès always kept to producing products in way they should be done.

[Hermès chronograph from 1930 with a Cyma movement]

From producing and selling watches in collaboration with other high-end watch companies, the next step forward for Hermès was the development of a fully-fledged watch company: La Montre Hermès S.A. in Biel (Switzerland) was formed in 1978. Hermès, using base ebauche from Jaeger LeCoultre, Vacheron, or (more recently) ETA, would create their own designs for the watch and the movement/complication, but be able to control the finishing of the movement and the watch. At a time when the Swiss watch industry was in disarray and declining, Hermès chose to invest in the craftsmanship and skill of watchmakers. The creation of La Montre Hermès, planned since the 1920’s, was not dependent on the state of the market, but on a long term Hermès plan.

[The first timepiece sold by Hermès: a ladies handbag watch produced by Cyma]


[A ladies watch as a leather bracelet – called the ‘Miami’ - from the 1935]
 

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